Review: First-rate sushi is only half of the wide-ranging menu at Fusion Fish

Fusion Fish has a crew of sushi chefs who measure up to Yung Nay’s high standards, as the sushi bar has been firing on all cylinders from day one. Juli Leonard

As you approach Fusion Fish from the parking lot, a catering van parked near the entrance catches your eye. Particularly striking is the paint job: a larger-than-life full color photographic rendering of an elaborate sushi display. As it happens, that’s your first clue as to what’s in store inside.

The van belongs to Yung Nay, the restaurant’s owner. Fusion Fish is Nay’s first restaurant, but he has operated a successful catering business for the past decade and counts some of the area’s top research firms among his corporate clients. He honed his skills at Sono (under sushi chef Mike Lee, who went on to open M Sushi in Durham), and briefly worked front of house at An Cuisines in Cary to broaden his understanding of how a restaurant works.

Nay calls his catering specialty “live sushi stations” — and if that conjures up images of the still-living fish you may have seen being filleted on a Food Network special on Tokyo, you can rest easy. He means “live” as in made to order.

It should come as no surprise, then, that sushi is a featured attraction at Fusion Fish. Or that the restaurant already had a strong following the day it opened in March.

Nay’s fanbase is sure to grow as others discover the first-rate sushi that he and his team are serving up. Those who find the typical everything-but-the-kitchen-sink list of house specialty rolls overwhelming will appreciate the concise, thoughtfully chosen selection at Fusion Fish. The list is divided into four categories — Raw, Cooked, Fried and Vegetarian — with just a handful of options in each.

Read the full review here

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The Genghis Khan lamb chops are redolent of Chinese spices, served atop a mound of sweet onion curry risotto and broccolini, and garnished with a lacy crown of spun sugar. at Fusion Fish in Chapel Hill. // Juli Leonard

Fusion Fish

100 Meadowmont Village Circle, Suite 101, Chapel Hill

919-903-8416

fusionfishcuisine.com

Cuisine: sushi, Asian fusion

Rating: 3 1/2 stars

Prices: $$$-$$$$

Atmosphere: sleekly contemporary

Noise level: moderate

Service: uniformly welcoming, variably attentive

Recommended: sushi, supeu, green tea noodle salad, Indian spiced scallops, lamb chops, chocolate crémeux

Open: Lunch Monday-Friday, dinner nightly (weekend brunch is in the works)

Reservations: recommended on weekends

Other: full bar; accommodates children; good vegetarian selection; parking in lot.

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